Wednesday, 18 February 2015

Neal's Yard Remedies: Nurturing Rose Shampoo & Conditioner reviews

I'm trying to make as many products as I can at home, such as deodorant and perfume - to avoid nasty ingredients and to keep costs down. Buying ready made 'organic' and 'natural' products can be expensive. Add to that the element of greenwashing - 'natural' doesn't necessarily mean safe, and synthetic doesn't necessarily mean dangerous - but 'green' companies really exploit the use of these words.

Only recently have I got myself a dictionary of cosmetic ingredients, and it's helped me decipher ingredient lists and find the hidden ones that I wouldn't expect to find in these 'natural' products.

But first, let me rewind to just before Yule: I was asked what gifts I'd like, and I impulsively picked out some items from Neal's Yard Remedies. As one of my favourite shops, NYR was firmly ingrained into my mind as the best option for natural and organic beauty products (when you can afford to splash out on them).

They score 100 in the Ethical Company Index and are the go-to shop for pursuers of 'green' beauty and for those seeking to avoid harmful chemicals in their lives. I'd already used a few of their products, but did absolutely no research on the ones I asked for. Two of these were the Nurturing Rose Shampoo & Conditioner.

These products are intended for dry, damaged and coloured hair - my hair is very dry and thirsty, so I thought they were worth a try. I've now been using them for nearly 2 months on and off, so thought I would share my experience with the products first before delving into the ingredients.



Reviews

Nurturing Rose Shampoo - £11.50 for 200ml


It smells gorgeous and feels lovely when applied to the hair. The bottle recommends applying sparingly, but I've tried using a small amount (around the size of a 50p coin), and my hair has not been properly cleansed. I could feel that my hair was still quite oily near the roots and in the crown area, which is really the main thing I want to get rid of when washing my hair.

When I used a larger amount of the product (a small palmful), I got a slight lather (though the lack of lather is intentional) and my hair did feel cleaner, but still felt ever so slightly oily and a little heavy and dull. (I have tried the shampoo with a different conditioner and still had this issue, so I know it's the shampoo).

I try not to wash my hair more than twice a week, and I found that alternating this shampoo with another worked, as the other shampoo cleansed my hair more thoroughly. Perhaps it is better for the hair that not all of the oils are cleansed away - but I really don't feel good if my hair is at all greasy - perhaps something I need to work on!

Rating: 2/10



Nurturing Rose Conditioner - £11.50 for 200ml


As with the shampoo, it smells and feels lovely. But unlike the shampoo, I am pleased to say that this product worked beautifully! It has a luxurious creamy texture and coats the hair well. I recommend gently combing it through for really good coverage, and to make best use of a small amount (you're going to want to make it last!). I find that it leaves my hair feeling soft and shiny, without being weighed down. The smell of the conditioner lingers in the hair which I love. I can't fault it.

Rating: 10/10


Thoughts


Firstly, this hair washing regime costs £23.00 - and realistically the two bottles (400ml total) would only last several weeks. That's expensive, in my opinion. However, they were a gift, and I thought they would be luxurious and pure and all natural: the NYR branding certainly worked on me!

But - that's not strictly the case. While many of the ingredients are natural and organic oils, in my opinion there are some questionable ingredients hidden in there too. I like it when you can read an ingredient list and know roughly what each thing is, but unfortunately some of the following ingredients needed a bit of research.

Ingredients list for the shampoo:

Aqua, Ammonium lauryl sulfate, Coco-glucoside, Hydroxypropyltrimonium honey, Alcohol denat., Rosa centifolia (Rose) flower extract, Cocamidopropyl betaine, Aloe barbadensis (Aloe vera) leaf juice powder*, Equisetum arvense (Horsetail) extract*, Rosa canina (Wild rose) seed oil*, Hippophae rhamnoides (Seabuckthorn) oil*, Rosa damascena (Rose) flower oil, Pogostemon cablin (Patchouli) oil*, Pelargonium graveolens (Geranium) oil*, Oryza sativa (Rice) bran oil, Passiflora edulis (Passion flower) seed oil, Euterpe oleracea (Acai palm) fruit oil, Ceramide 3, Lauryl glucoside, Levulinic acid, Glycerin, Potassium sorbate, Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, Sodium sunflower amphoacetate, Citral, Citronellol, Eugenol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Linalool.*Organically produced ingredient. Natural constituent of essential oils listed. Made with 73% organically produced ingredients.

Ingredients list for the conditioner:

Aqua, Acer saccharinum (Maple) extract*, Cetyl alcohol, Olea europaea (Olive) fruit oil*, Behentrimonium chloride, Alcohol denat., Rosa centifolia (Rose) flower extract, Panthenol, Cocos nucifera (Coconut) oil*, Calendula officinalis (Marigold) flower extract*, Rosa damascena (Rose) flower oil*, Ceramide 3, Lauryl glucoside, Levulinic acid, Glycerin, Potassium sorbate, Polyquaternium-10, Citral, Citronellol, Eugenol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool.
*Organically produced ingredient. Natural constituent of essential oils listed. Made with 89% organic ingredients. This is a vegan product. 

Questionable ingredients:

  • Ammonium lauryl sulfate - various sources say this is in the same family as Sodium lauryl sulfate, and while a gentler relation, it still comes with the associated risks. No thanks! 
  • Lauryl glucoside - a surfactant made from glucose and lauryl alcohol. Lauryl alcohol, also known as dodecanol, can cause mild irritation to skin and eyes, but more worryingly is classed as harmful to the marine environment. Don't want this ingredient either!
  • Potassium sorbate - used as a preservative - in itself not really bad at all, but I read that while it can be found naturally in a few berries, virtually all sorbic acid (which it's derived from) is produced synthetically. I don't want synthetic ingredients in my natural products.
  • Cetyl alcohol - originally derived from Whale oil, now (thankfully) produced synthetically or derived from Palm oil - but there is the issue. I don't want synthetics or anything derived from Palm oil - see here. So, either way .. no thanks. 
NYR do provide a thorough ingredients glossary, and go to great lengths to explain what's in their products. I don't feel that they are trying to deceive anyone, but equally I don't think they are squeaky clean. I'm not saying that the ingredients I've pointed out are horrendous - they are a vast improvement on the cocktail of toxins found in mainstream products - but I don't expect to find them in a premium 'natural' product, with a price tag to match.

There are other much cheaper products available which have similar or better (i.e less synthetic) ingredients - I will work on a list soon. If you're going to compromise, why pay top price?

I'm not a scientist by any stretch of the imagination, so would recommend anyone to do their own research - and do inform me if if you think I'm way off the mark.

What do you think of NYR products? Do you think the products deliver on the promises of the brand?

Thriftmaiden
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Monday, 9 February 2015

The Quest for Raven Hair - my first attempt at 2-step Henndigo

Up until just a couple of years ago, I'd always dyed my hair black or dark brown - and had done so for about 10 years. My hair had suffered as a result. I'd known it was bad, but I'd tried henna and hated the orange sheen it gave my hair - and I tried the slightly less toxic alternatives, and hadn't liked the results. I have never felt comfortable with my natural shade which is light-medium brown - and I wasn't willing to compromise on having dark hair, so I had to find another way.

My hair pre-Henndigo - weird colours left
from veg dyes. Very dry and unhappy!
This led to a brief love affair with Vegetable Dyes such as Directions and Manic Panic. They worked well but washed out quickly, and I found the upkeep very tedious. (Knowing what I do now, I would not recommend the use of these veg dyes due to them including Ceteareth-20 and other questionable ingredients).

I had started to realise that my hair dyeing practices were making me sad - I wanted luscious raven locks but I didn't want to be flushing chemicals into the waterways, nor damaging my hair and potentially my body through the absorption of toxins. In acknowledging this, I knew there would be no going back to box dyes - so I started doing more research into natural dyes.

To my utter delight, I found that Henna and Indigo can be used together to achieve a range of brunette shades, through to blue-black and in some cases a purple-black. The mystical combo is affectionately known as 'henndigo', and I wanted to try it out on my dull and messed up hair immediately!


There are two ways to use Henna & Indigo


1. Single application - or 1 step - this is where you combine the Henna & Indigo together and apply at the same time, achieving a range of warm brunette colours, depending on your base.

2. Double application - or 2 step - this involves applying the Henna first, washing out, then applying the Indigo - this has a layering effect which can create dark brown to black shades. This is the one I decided to try. 


What you'll need


☾ Water
☾ 100g+ Body Art Quality Henna
☾ 100g+ Body Art Quality Indigo
☾ Apple Cider Vinegar or Lemon Juice
☾ Some decent reusable gloves
☾ Old clothes and towels
☾ A very helpful and patient assistant!

Buying the powder


Make sure you source Body Art Quality Henna and Indigo. I wanted to buy organic, and initially found a seller on eBay but sadly they no longer trade. I can recommend Suvarna - they have beautiful organic powders, and you can expect to pay around £11 for 100g of each powder.

I also bought some Amla powder, which can be added to the henna as a conditioner, as well as helping to relax frizz-prone hair.

Below shows the colours of the Amla, Indigo and Henna from left to right:



Mixing the Henna


I put 200g of Henna powder into a glass bowl. For shoulder length hair, you'll need around 120-150g of each powder. For mid-back length like mine, you'll need 200-250g of each (it can get a bit expensive!).

For info on mixes and suggested ratios for your hair length, have a look at this PDF Guide from Mehandi.com.

Don't use a metal bowl or spoon - it is said the metal upsets the mix. (I forgot this, and used a metal spoon, and nothing terrible happened - but I've remembered not to do it since.. just in case)


I mixed some Apple Cider Vinegar (acidic - helps with dye release) with warm water (not too hot, as this degrades the pigments) in a jug, and slowly poured onto the henna, mixing as I went. You can use lemon juice if you prefer.

The desired paste should be smooth and have a yoghurty consistency. 

Henna before dye release
Henna after dye release
Now you have to wait while the Henna releases it's dye. This can take a while, and most people recommend leaving your bowl overnight, covered in plastic, at room temp. I put my bowl in the room where we had an open fire - I kept it away from the direct heat, but with the ambient temperature, I had dye release after about an hour. 

The images (left) show the colour of the paste before and after dye release.


I then added some Amla powder to the Henna mix, and added a tiny bit more water to keep the consistency. (I didn't measure this - sorry - just a handful or so!)




Applying the Henna


This is where you will need your willing helper and the gloves - definitely don't forget the gloves.

Apply cream, aloe vera gel or similar to your hairline and ears to try and prevent staining of the skin. Wear old clothes and put an old towel around your shoulders and on the floor to catch drips!

My mum was kind enough to apply my Henna for me. She put my hair up and let it down in sections, allowing her to get the Henna right to the roots. You will quickly find that the Henna can be gritty, difficult to squish into all the strands, and that it dries quickly turning your hair to stone. It's not the easiest process, but hopefully worth the fuss. 

Once you are happy that you have covered all of the hairs on your head, you can wrap your whole head in plastic. This is both to stop drips/dried bits of Henna from escaping and making a mess, and to keep the heat and moisture in, which helps with the colour. Just wrapping in a towel would soak up too much moisture - you need it to stay as wet as possible.

Cling film is the most convenient thing to use, but please try to avoid this if you can - I tend to use several old carrier bags tied in a knot around my head, and wear a shower cap over the top!

I then put a towel over my pillows just in case, and went to bed! If you can leave your henna on overnight, the colour will be more intense. If you can't do it overnight, just leave it on as long as possible - a few hours should do it.

[Note: the towels over my pillows were absolutely CRUCIAL. This stuff sneaks out no matter what, so be careful - unless you like little orange dots on everything.]


Washing off the Henna


This took me a good 40 minutes. It is difficult to wash off, and your bath will probably be orange by the end of it. However, the marks came off with a bit of elbow grease, and didn't stain like other dyes I've used in the past. 

Don't shampoo or condition the hair, just dry it (preferably air dry!) before moving onto the Indigo.

This is my air-dried hair after Hennaing:


It felt so much better than before (although it does still look a bit mad). It felt smoother, stronger and actually had a nice shine. The colour was a mix of burnt orange and dark burgundy shades. Not something I'd want to keep, but I liked that the different tones were retained.




Mixing the Indigo

Indigo before mixing
Indigo after mixing
I put 220g of Indigo powder into the bowl. I used a bit more than with the Henna, because I'd used a bit of Amla in the Henna mix and we started to run a bit low towards the end.


I then added water and mixed until the consistency was yoghurty and as smooth as I could get it. Indigo needs to be used immediately - there is no need to wait for dye release. Work as quickly as you can, as it starts to demise after around 30 minutes.



Applying the Indigo

As before, I put some cream around my hairline and ears for protection.

Next, my Mum applied the Indigo in the same way as the Henna - be thorough and give everything a thick coating.

Then, I wrapped my hair in my lovely plastic bags and went about my business for about 3.5 hours while the Indigo was working it's magic.

Leave it on your hair for at least 2 - 4 hours.



Washing off the Indigo


This is a bit easier than washing off the Henna, because you can now use conditioner which helps a lot!

Once my hair was dry, I was a very happy girl! It was a lot darker, and it felt amazing - fuller and stronger. It looked shiny and healthy and lovely. I managed to achieve this colour which I loved:


Apologies for the photos - I should have made more effort and taken them in similar lighting. From left to right shows the progression of colour over several weeks. It was a dark, rich brown which was almost black in some lights, fading to a medium/dark brown with orange tones and sometimes a slight tinge of green - but it wasn't too bad. I'd have preferred a darker blue-black like I've seen some people achieve - but that's something to work towards!

Don't be alarmed if you see a green hue at first - everywhere I've looked suggests that it takes a couple of days for the colour to oxidise and settle down. I didn't get one at first but I noticed a slight green hue after the third week.

There are quite a few variations on this process, and some ways of possibly enhancing the colour through adding coffee, salt and walnut powder - but I've not tried these yet.


Thoughts


Overall I was really very happy with the end result. My hair felt nourished and was much darker than my natural hair colour. I would recommend it for anyone looking to darken and enhance their brown hair.

However, I recognise that this isn't a very 'thrifty' process, with the whole treatment costing £25+. It's not something I can afford to do often, and in the past year I've only done it three times. I tend to think of it as a treat now rather than a 3 weekly necessity.

The colour does fade, and unfortunately this is usually to brown with orange hues. But, my way of thinking has changed, and I don't mind it so much. I love that this process is kind to my hair, and kind to the environment. It's also nicer to have the colour fade naturally as it doesn't leave an obvious stripe of regrowth!

The amount of time and extra expense that Henndigo requires over conventional box dyes makes it feel more special, and it's a process I look forward to.

I'd love to know if anyone has any tips for further darkening the colour!

Thriftmaiden
x

Friday, 6 February 2015

Switching to reusable menstrual products: better for you, the environment, and your pocket

Thinking about the sanitary products you use probably isn't top of your list, but there are things you deserve to know about disposables - and there is money to be saved!


Around eight years ago I remember sitting talking with a woman at a festival. She was telling me in great detail about her Mooncup, and how she would use collected menstrual blood to feed her plants. I found the topic pretty rank at the time, and I really didn’t grasp the concept – I thought it was a hippy fad that was just a bit too far outside my comfort zone. I didn’t stop to think about my own use of disposables, and the effect that had on the environment and myself until my body forced me to.

A year or so after that conversation I started to have really bad reactions to tampons. My body felt like it was physically trying to rid itself of them, and it was painful. I developed other symptoms and felt so unwell that I thought I may even have Toxic Shock Syndrome (TSS) – I went straight to the doctor. I didn’t have TSS, but the doctor had no explanation. I asked if it was possible I’d developed an allergy to tampons, and was practically laughed out of the office. She said that would be impossible because tampons are made of completely pure cotton – “There is nothing to be allergic to!

I went away and did some research, and found that the doctor was pretty much talking rubbish - though she probably just had no idea. There is so much more to it that I could have imagined. I already knew that using tampons came with the risk of TSS, and can cause various unpleasant symptoms including vaginal ulcers and dryness. However, I didn’t know that the fibres that make up tampons and pads go through a variety of chemical processes, and to make sure they are pristinely white, they are bleached. (Why, exactly, do we need them to be pure white? It bemuses me.)

These processes leave behind all sorts of disinfection-by-products (DBPs) and toxic dioxins. Not to mention the potential trace pesticides and herbicides in the cotton itself, and the fibres that are left behind. There were a multitude of things that could have been causing my reaction, and that I really did not want to be absorbing into my body.

"Dioxins released during chlorine bleaching and plastics manufacture have been shown to cause cancer, miscarriages and damage to the immune system and toxic shock syndrome." - Moon Times

By this point, I couldn’t simply switch to sanitary pads because I knew too much - I knew that the average sanitary towel contains about the same amount of plastic as 4 carrier bags – with all the associated chemicals. This means they aren't compostable or biodegradable. I also knew that wearing a synthetic pad basically traps heat and moisture and becomes the perfect breeding ground for bacteria – which is pretty unpleasant. I didn't ever like using pads anyway, so it wasn't too hard to cross them off my list.

The depressing reality is that most pads and tampons end up in landfill or the ocean. According to Natracare, “Every year, in Britain alone, we would need to dig a hole 300 feet wide and 300 feet deep to bury the used sanitary pads and tampons that women throw away.” I feel a bit sad that I've contributed to that already - and that most women probably don't realise quite how long their sanitary waste hangs around after it's thrown 'away'.

But - there ARE alternatives. Most people I speak to about reusable sanitary products switch off - and I can't blame them because I've been there! But they aren't gross, or unpleasant, or expensive.

The two best alternatives in my opinion, are menstrual cups and washable cloth pads. They're better for your body, the environment and will save you money!



Menstrual cups


There are several makes available but the Mooncup is probably the best known, and can be bought off-the-shelf in many Boots stores here in the UK. I use one, and I think it's fantastic. It put a stop to all the issues I'd been having, and revolutionised periods for me. I now find periods to be slightly shorter in length, less painful, and much less stressful.

Mooncup available here [AL]
A menstrual cup is basically a small goblet-shaped silicone cup that you wear inside you, that collects rather than absorbs your flow. I was skeptical about the silicone at first - it isn't a sustainable or eco-friendly material in itself - but being that it will replace around 2,400 disposables over a ten year period, I think it's a compromise worth making.

Unfortunately, Mooncups seem to have a bit of a reputation for being a 'middle-class' trend but it this really needs to change. To me, menstrual cups are the ultimate thrifty product - you may only need to ever buy one, saving you a fair amount on disposables throughout your fertile lifetime!

When I first bought my Mooncup, the leaflet said that with proper care it would last 10 years before needing replacing. Now, the website suggests that if you care for them properly (boiling in water for 5 minutes between each period and storing somewhere dry), they can go on indefinitely – but you should replace them if they become sticky or lose their shape.


Better for your health


The Mooncup is made from soft medical grade silicone, is latex-free and hypoallergenic and contains no dyes, BPA, phthalates, plastic, bleaches or toxins.

It collects rather than absorbs, so it won't cause dryness. There are no chemicals or toxins to leach out into your body. The cup environment does not support the growth of bacteria as pads and tampons do, and therefore there is little or no associated risk of TSS.

Saves money


A Mooncup costs RRP £19.99, and I have worked out that since I’ve been using mine (approx. 7 yrs), I’ve personally saved around £235.50 – that’s a conservative estimate and with the cost of the cup itself deducted. Pretty good in my book!

Absolutely no waste


You simply empty your Mooncup into the toilet or down the sink … or feed your plants with it. Nothing goes to landfill.

When your Mooncup reaches the end of its life, it should be possible to get it recycled. (When I get to this point, I will let you know!) Medical grade silicone is recycled by hospitals, so in principle it should be possible for cups to get recycled too.

More convenient 


Many people think Mooncups are messy – but they aren't. It can take a bit of practice to get the 'knack' of putting it in and removing it neatly, but you will get the hang of it and it will be worth it!

You don’t need to empty it as often as you would need to change a tampon – they hold 3 times more and should be emptied every 4-8 hours and after wearing overnight. I can go about my day and totally forget it's there, with no stress about needing to find toilets or bins!

When emptying, simply rinse the cup with clean water and reinstall. If you're in a cubicle with no sink, wipe with toilet paper - or make sure you take a bottle of water with you. (Just make sure to sterilise/boil it in-between periods.)

When travelling, it is lovely to only have to pack your Mooncup and not worry about stocking up on packs of disposables.

A few tips



  • Get the right size for you - there are two to choose from - the website explains.
  • Give it time – it can take a while to get used to your Mooncup, but do perservere if you find it hard at first – the benefits are worth it.
  • Trim the stem if it's too long - at first mine would dig in – trim it in tiny stages until you can't feel it any more when it's in, but can still catch hold of it for removal.


For more information, the FAQ’s on the Mooncup site are full of information.




Washable Pads


Reusable pad from Drapers Organic Cotton
A quick search on Google will provide you with a multitude of companies that offer washable pads in a variety of shapes, sizes, patterns and designs. These absorbent pads are durable and are washed in the machine with the rest of the laundry. This makes them very economical - they can last for years
and years if well cared for.


It's a good idea to start off with 10-15 pads so that you don't have to do washing every day.

Better for your health


Cotton is breathable, unlike the plastics used in disposable pads, and therefore helps keep thrush and fungal issues at bay. There should be no chemicals used in the processing of organic cotton, so there's nothing toxic for you to absorb.

Saves you money


Although the initial investment of around £6 per pre-made pad feels costly, they will last for years and years if looked after. I know of people who've had the same pads for over a decade and with plenty of life left in them! There isn't much cost involved in their care. You rinse them in water and wash with your laundry, so it shouldn't cost any extra. If you bought 20 pads in ten years, you'd have saved at least £360 (based on previously spending £4 per month on disposables).


If you choose to make your own pads, the cost will be significantly less. You might consider using old cotton sheets which don't look so great on the bed any more but could be cut up and made into pads. You may find you have everything you need already to get started for free (with a bit of time spent on the sewing machine!) There are lots of tutorials for making your own pads online.

Much better for the environment



Switching to washable pads means you aren't creating any waste. When they eventually come to the end of their lives, they can be composted! Obviously things like poppers/velcro will need to be removed and preferably reused - but the natural fabrics can be cut up and put on the compost heap. 


Convenient and comfortable


They are soft and are much more comfortable to wear than synthetics as a result. Most tend to fasten under the gusset with studs/poppers, making them secure - there are no sticky strips to come unstuck and cause leaks. You don't throw them away, so the worry about putting disposables in the bin at a friend's house is gone. You can wrap them up in reusable sealable waterproof bags to take home for washing. No one need ever know!

Obviously washing your pads is a bit inconvenient. You'll need to be organised and well prepared to ensure you're well stocked for your period.

Choosing your pads


Look for pads made with organic unbleached cotton where possible so you know the fibres have not been exposed to harmful pesticides or herbicides, and that the cotton doesn't contain any toxins from the bleaching process. Watch out for any hidden synthetic layers or paddings.

Stick to natural fibres - they allow breathability and they will biodegrade when you've finished with them. Bamboo, though a lovely fabric, is not as sustainable as it's made out to be - the plant fibres go through harsh chemical processing to create the silky soft end result. It pays to do a bit of research about materials, especially when it's going to be in close contact with sensitive places!

Beware of bright patterns and strong colours - dyeing in itself can be a pretty toxic process. There are some beautiful prints and designs out there, but do some research and check to see what sort of dyes are being used. I personally wouldn't want to pay for an organic pad which might contain toxins from the dyeing process.

However, any reusable pad is going to be better than a synthetic disposable - even if it's non-organic and dyed a myriad of colours. Anything undesirable in the fabrics will be less and less present with the repeated washings, the material will still be breathable and comfortable, and you won't be creating any waste! Don't be disheartened if you can't afford to buy everything organic, or if you've got your heart set on a patterned pad - this ought to be an enjoyable process.


Companies that specialise in washable pads:




Obviously if you opt to make your own pads, you'll have total control over what they're made from - and it can be fun!



There are other reusables available, including natural sponges and reusable tampons, which I will look at in another post - this one got rather long!

For those of you who want rid of the toxic disposables but aren't ready for reusables, Natracare offer a range of organic disposable pads and tampons which might be the right compromise. Being over 99% biodegradable and compostable, and free of toxins, they are a vast improvement over the usual brands. (If using tampons, make sure you use the right absorbency for your flow to minimise dryness).

I'd love to hear from you if you have any suggestions for other affordable and non toxic alternatives to disposables!

Thriftmaiden
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